48 Hours in… LimaChris Rendell-Dunn - Travel Consultant
Our Real Latin America Expert
Chris Rendell-Dunn - Travel Consultant
Anglo-Peruvian Chris grew up in Lima and spent much of his adult life in between London and Cusco as a tour leader, before settling permanently in our Sales team.
Lima is often overlooked by visitors to Peru: with so many world-famous sights like Lake Titicaca, the Nazca Lines and Machu Picchu on the horizon, travellers are naturally eager to head into the Andes, the Amazon or along the desert coast. If you have time to devote to the capital though, I promise you, Lima will not disappoint – even if you just stay for the food! Here is what I recommend you do...
After a hearty breakfast head to Lima’s colonial centre, best visited in the morning when it’s fresh and the traffic is not too heavy.
To see some of Lima’s best-preserved colonial legacy head to the Plaza de Armas – the city's main square – flanked by the 18th century cathedral, the President's Palace, the Archbishop's Palace, and the Torre Tagle Palace that was built for the treasurer of the Royal Spanish fleet and considered to be the most striking of Lima's 18th century mansions. Another building that borrows its architectural style from Baroque and Moorish Spain is the Monastery of San Francisco with its fascinating library and grisly Catacombs. Not far is the old central post office, a true philatelist’s dream.
Once you've worked up an appetite, head across town to the Larco Herrera Museum to enjoy a peaceful lunch in the museum's pretty walled gardens and sample one of the best ceviches in Lima. The museum houses an amazing collection of beautifully modelled pottery, unique gold and silver work, mummies and ceramics from pre-Inca civilizations. Not to mention the erotic collection!
In the evening Barranco, Lima’s bohemian district, comes to life, brimming with folkloric shows and bars featuring spirited live performances by Peruvian bands. For a light dinner of barbecued beef hearts (anticuchos) join the locals at Tio Mario’s near the evocative Puente de Los Suspiros (whispering bridge). Alternatively Cala restaurant, which overlooks the ravine, offers all the Peruvian classics like aji de gallina (mild chicken curry) and seco de cordero (coriander lamb stew), but in a refined setting. And if you haven’t sampled Peru's famous Pisco Sour cocktail yet, now’s your chance.
This morning you’ll experience the day-to-day life of the limeños. Head to Surquillo food market with its diverse variety of fish and vegetables for sale, where you'll have a chance to taste some of the delicious local fruits such as lucuma, chirimoya (custard apple) and pacay. Now that you've whet your appetite, choose either Pescados Capitales restaurant on Avenida La Mar, Miraflores, or Segundo Muelle on Avenida Conquistadores in San Isidro for a superb seafood lunch.
In the afternoon you can either opt to do some shopping around Miraflores – you’ll find some lovely antiques and silverware on Avenida La Paz – or head to the lovely residential suburb, San Isidro, to visit Huaca Pucllana – an ancient pyramid that pre-dates the Incas. To cool down, there’s a fantastic ice cream parlour called 4D which is located just around the corner – try the tumbo flavour (similar to passion fruit).
If you have the energy, try and get out to Parque de la Reserva near the centre. From Wednesday to Sunday there’s a Magic Water Show (Circuito Magico del Agua). The show lasts about 45 minutes with performances starting at 19:15, 20:15, 21:30 and 22:30. Expect an exceptional display of fountains choreographed to music, accompanied by a spectacular light show behind the swirling, twirling water.
For dinner, Astrid y Gastón offers one of the best upmarket dining experiences in Lima. For a more modest option with bags of atmosphere I really like Mangos in Larcomar, Miraflores. Its location overlooking the Pacific Ocean is second to none, and the lomo saltado (stir-fried beef with rice and chips) is delicious.
EATING IN LIMA
Peruvian cuisine is known throughout South America for its ability to incorporate influences from different times and cultures. The result is a culinary palette that has a depth of taste and colour that is unrivalled in all of the Americas, and the capital is its showcase. In my opinion, Lima is easily one of the world's best places to dine.
For more restaurant recommendations than you could possibly fit into 48 hours (though trying would be pretty enjoyable), don't miss the Culinary Guide to Lima by restaurateur Martin Morales, and my wife's blog post, Eating Between the Lines.
HOW TO GET THERE
Fly direct from London Gatwick to Lima between April to October starting from £750pp or fly return to Lima via Madrid with Iberia starting from £640pp. Alternatively you can combine Peru with Brazil by flying with Iberia into Lima and British Airways out of Rio starting from £645pp.
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Real Latin America Experts
Ben Line - Travel Consultant
Ben fell in love with Latin America on a six month backpacking trip from Colombia to Mexico in 1995. Since then he has explored most of South America, including living in Peru for a year. He is now Manager of the Tailor-made Department.
Lina Fuller - Travel Consultant
Lina's passion for the continent where she was born really took off when she moved to Córdoba to study, spending the holidays travelling between Argentina and her native Colombia.
Sophie Barber - Travel Consultant
Sophie lived in Chile before joining us and has travelled extensively across Latin America, from Mexico to the furthest tip of Patagonia.
Paul Winrow-Giffin - Travel Consultant
After graduating in Computer Science, Paul spent seven months travelling from Colombia to Argentina and came home hooked on Latin America.
Mary Anne Nelson - Travel Consultant
Born in the Atacama Desert in northern Chile, Mary’s insider knowledge and dry sense of humour make her a highly valued member of the Tailor-made team.
Kathryn Rhodes - Travel Consultant
Kathryn backpacked across Argentina, Chile, Bolivia and Peru before joining us. She has a degree in Philosophy and French and is a keen netball player.