Nicaragua is one of Latin America’s remaining true adventure destinations. For decades preoccupied with internal struggle, now reconciled, this friendly country remains little developed for tourism, especially compared to its neighbour Costa Rica. The amiable republic soldiers on at its own slow pace, following the rhythms of age-old traditions and an unpressured economy.

But that is where its appeal lies: gorgeous rural scenery, crossed by virtually empty roads where you are more likely to come across cattle being herded by cowboys or rickety overloaded buses than queues of cars. Whether driving west or east over the continental divide you are never far from a spectacular volcanic view. The landscape is peppered with colonial cities, tropical forest reserves and defined by a rugged stretch of golden Pacific coast.