Marooned roughly halfway between Uyuni and the Chilean border, this isolated but pleasantly surprising Mallku Cueva hotel is the only option within the spectacular surrounding area. It's certainly out of the ordinary: built into the side of a rocky outcrop, it utilises the rock face as a wall for some of the bedrooms and for the communal living room where it is atmospherically uplit at night.
The rooms are basic, but cosier than the remote location might suggest, with comfy beds and central heating – a godsend on chilly altiplano
nights. The décor is attractively rustic. Light is supplied by a gas generator and switched off at 10.30pm, but beyond relaxing in the lounge beside the huge fireplace or eating in the small but above average restaurant, there's little to keep you up late here. Overall, given the remoteness, this is a charming and well-kept place.