Big water, small wonders
Peter Gasson describes the flora and fauna by the falling water of Iguassu
Many adjectives can be used to describe the Iguaçú Falls: astounding, magnificent and overwhelming are among them. A UNESCO World Heritage Site and natural wonder of the world, the falls are situated on the border between Argentina and Brazil, 19 km upstream from the confluence of the Rivers Iguaçú and Alto Paraná.
Both sides of the border are protected national parks and there is a striking contrast between the forested reserves and adjacent agriculture. Arriving by air to the town of Foz do Iguaçú, some 15 km from the falls, the pilot may circle the area during the descent, affording spectacular views without disturbing people and wildlife on the ground.
Aerial observation can not, however, prepare you for the sensual overload of a close encounter with the falls. Up to 6500 cubic metres of water per second pour over 275 falls, which are around 80 metres high and stretch for 3 kilometres! The sheer power of all this water is best experienced by following walkways leading to the base of some falls, where you are engulfed in spray and a soaking is guaranteed!
Long before they were ‘discovered’ by Europeans, indigenous peoples of the area, the Tupi-Guaraní and Paraguas, treated the falls as a place of holy burial. Indeed, the falls’ name derives from the Guaraní language; ‘I’ meaning water and ‘guazú’, big.
Today, two hotels interrupt the subtropical wilderness running alongside the Iguaçú River, the colonial-style das Cataratas (cataratas means waterfalls in Brazilian Portuguese) and the more modern Sheraton Internacional on the Argentine side. The view from the Hotel das Cataratas is truly stunning. In the early morning the valley is often shrouded in mist, which clears to reveal a variety of falls surrounded by luxuriant forest.
By sunrise, the forest is alive with the movements and calls of birds. Toco Toucans are among the first to appear, perched sentinel-like at the top of the tallest bare trees. Colonies of Red-rumped Caçiques make almost enough noise to compete with the roaring of the falls. Red-breasted Toucans, Plush-crested Jays, Squirrel Cuckoos and Surucua Trogons all put in an appearance soon after sunrise.
All this activity takes place within 100 metres of the hotel. Venture further afield along the approach road or down towards the falls and many other birds can be found including, with luck, the Black-fronted Piping Guan, a local endemic. Listen for the fairly unobtrusive Brown Capuchin Monkeys, which can come quite close to the hotel, and watch out for Agoutis which nervously cross your path.
No effort at all is needed to see Coatis, which are fairly close relatives of the racoon. Gangs of them roam around outside the hotel, looking for unsuspecting tourists. They will rummage in any unattended bags, and if your pockets are out of reach, will climb up you to get to them, especially if they sense that there’s food inside! These are fascinating animals, with their inquisitive and engaging personalities and very wet, mobile noses! It’s easy to forget the spectacular surroundings whilst engrossed watching them grooming, scratching and searching for food.
By around 10am the bird activity has subsided, and the botanical delights of the area can be explored. Many familiar plants can be found on the walk alongside the river including begonias, ferns, cacti and epiphytic orchids. A beautiful araucaria tree grows right in front of the hotel, as do plenty of palms and some papaya shrubs.
Just outside the national park is the Bird Park, which you may be tempted to miss. Don’t! There are large walk-through aviaries with many local species including toucans, parrots and jays. But perhaps more importantly there are many completely tame tinamous, guans and curassows, which can be very difficult to see in the wild. Whilst you can’t add them to your ‘list’, you can watch and photograph them without causing any harm. The captive birds often attract their wild congeners from the surrounding area, so keep a watch outside the aviaries for visitors.
The Brazilian side gives the best general view of the falls but cross the border to Argentina for closer access to individual falls, from both above and below. There are so many different viewpoints even frugal photographers quickly run out of film! Be sure to save a few frames for lunchtime, when rainbows usually arc over the falls. Re-load for a late afternoon visit to the Garganta del Diablo (Devil’s Throat), when the light is best and swifts return to roost on the cliffs, some behind the cascading water. Arguably the most spectacular part of the falls, the Garganta is reached by boat, which takes you to a walkway and viewing point. Here, you can stand right above the roaring water, immersed in spray and a cacophany of sound.
Over 500 species of butterfly have been identified within the national parks. Many can be seen at puddles and along walkways. They are usually males replenishing salts lost while mating, and will often perch on your bare skin. Several yellow species, swallowtails, and the ‘88’ (sonamed because of its under-wing pattern) are among those commonly present. Perhaps the most bizarre of all are the Hamadryas, which fly around clicking their wings, and are so cryptically patterned they become invisible after landing on tree bark.
For those people seeking activity and adventure, trips by launch along the upper and lower sections of the Iguaçú river are popular. Guided walking, mountain biking and 4-wheel-drive excursions are all readily available. For me, though, the attraction of Iguaçú has to be its sheer beauty and the abundance of natural history in the area.
Dr Peter Gasson, a botanist at the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew, has visited Iguaçu Falls on several ‘Friends of Kew’ tours organised by Journey Latin America.